Kiwi step power.

[Just two]

Camping this weekend, packing up and ready to go. The powered steps wouldn’t go in. Ran a 12 volt jumper wire to the red wires and I was able to get them in.
My question to you is, where does the power come from and/or where is the fuse?

 

[Chuck v]

The fuses to my power step were in the large block in the bay under the driver side mirror. Your fuse locations and values may vary depending on the coach you have...

 

[Just two]

Camping this weekend, packing up and ready to go. The powered steps wouldn’t go in. Ran a 12 volt jumper wire to the red wires and I was able to get them in.
My question to you is, where does the power come from and/or where is the fuse?

Found the source of the 12 volt power for the steps. I used a wire tracer and tracked it back to the power box behind the house batteries. The schematic shows a 25 amp fuse. To check the fuse I would have to remove the batteries. That would have been a chore. I added a fuse and ran a cable to replace the power source cable. This will make it much easier to service this circuit in the future.
It might be good to note that I am working on a 2021 5210.
Hope this information helps someone in the future.

 

[Just two]

The fuses to my power step were in the large block in the bay under the driver side mirror. Your fuse locations and values may vary depending on the coach you have...

View attachment 1939947

Thanks, I checked all the coach fuses, both in the engine compartment and near the e brake peddle. All the hot fuses were hot on both sides. I figured that the steps would have to have power available continuously.
That’s when I decided to use the tracer. It is much better the way I wired it. I’ll draw a schematic for any future owner. Or an older me.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Ronald1955]

Thanks, I checked all the coach fuses, both in the engine compartment and near the e brake peddle. All the hot fuses were hot on both sides. I figured that the steps would have to have power available continuously.
That’s when I decided to use the tracer. It is much better the way I wired it. I’ll draw a schematic for any future owner. Or an older me.

Thanks again for the help.

We just upgraded our 2022 BT5230 with 880 watts of solar and additional fuses near our two batteries. So any information you can provide will be helpful. I need to add a portable power supply to my toolkit to supply power when testing circuits. I currently use our Dewalt 14.4 volt battery when bench testing components. I am learning more about our slide out for maintenance and service.

 

[Gulf Santa]

Mine has stop retracting twice now. No fuse issues. I disassembled the linkage and loosened the motor just a little bit. Then I opened the door and the motor operated. I tightened the motor, reassembled the linkage and lubricated all the possible locations. The first time I did this it lasted 3 years. Just had to do it again.

 

[THenne1713]

Camping this weekend, packing up and ready to go. The powered steps wouldn’t go in. Ran a 12 volt jumper wire to the red wires and I was able to get them in.
My question to you is, where does the power come from and/or where is the fuse?

My GS class c, the step has a breaker right beside battery, which is under hinged interior step

 

[Just two]

A circuit breaker makes more sense. I plan on removing the 2 house batteries and investigating that control cabinet. I replaced the original AGM battery and installed 2 - 110 amp hour lithium. I left the original alternator battery charge system in place. It has been charging the new lithium set. I did buy a B2B to replace the original system. Not sure what having lithium house batteries charging directly off the Ford system is doing to the AGM start battery?
Full disclosure I did replace the original alternator with a 400 amp model.

 

[Carolina Quards]

A circuit breaker makes more sense. I plan on removing the 2 house batteries and investigating that control cabinet. I replaced the original AGM battery and installed 2 - 110 amp hour lithium. I left the original alternator battery charge system in place. It has been charging the new lithium set. I did buy a B2B to replace the original system. Not sure what having lithium house batteries charging directly off the Ford system is doing to the AGM start battery?
Full disclosure I did replace the original alternator with a 400 amp model.

I'm interested in you solution. I have a couple of questions: 1) When you say you left the original charge system in place. Does that mean the B.I.R.D and the Soloniod? 2) Where did you place the B2B?

Thanks

 

[Chuck v]

The title of this thread has always concerned me in that it may actually be referring to a different brand steps mechanism than the KwiKee power steps. If the steps being discussed here are actually the KwiKee product, maybe the original poster or a moderator can correct the title so searchers in the future can find the information more reliable.

My power steps do indeed come out "from under" the doorway, but do not come from New Zealand...

 

[Just two]

Chuck, you are so right the name is wrong in the title.
So sorry, I can not edit it or add a tag. Hopefully future searchers can find it.

 

[Just two]

Some new information. We took another trip to the mountains. Steps worked great until we were ready to depart. Found the 25 amp fuse blown. Replaced the fuse and had no issues on the trip home.
Definitely nice to have the fuse where it can be accessed.
I plan on taking current readings and clean up the connections. Also clean up and grease the mechanical components. Recheck the current.

 

[Just two]

I'm interested in you solution. I have a couple of questions: 1) When you say you left the original charge system in place. Does that mean the B.I.R.D and the Soloniod? 2) Where did you place the B2B?

Thanks

1) not sure what B.I.R.D is but when I replace the single lead acid 12 volt house battery with the lithium. I only moved the charging cable and the cable to the fuse box. I did replace the power converter at the bottom of the power panel. See attached picture.

2) I bought a Renogy B2B to replace the solenoid. I was going to install it in front of the fresh water tank on the inside of the coach. But I recently found a waterproof model that may work better, as I can install it nearer the batteries. See attached.

 

[Chuck v]

The BIRD is a "Bi-directional Isolation Relay Disconnect" and allows independent system performance for the house/coach devices from the vehicle/chassis items like the engine and headlights, etc. while still allowing a common charging scenario from the engine alternator (and the emergency cross connect of the battery banks for engine starting when the chassis batteries are low...) The most common one is from Intellitec. This document gives a good overview.

https://intellitec.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/53-00362-000-PRODUCT-BROCHURE-1.pdf

I have no idea how many issues might stem from mixing a lead acid bank and a lithium bank in a system that has a fully functioning BIRD, as the two battery technologies have very different charging and float maintenance characteristics.

 

[Just two]

Some new information. We took another trip to the mountains. Steps worked great until we were ready to depart. Found the 25 amp fuse blown. Replaced the fuse and had no issues on the trip home.
Definitely nice to have the fuse where it can be accessed.
I plan on taking current readings and clean up the connections. Also clean up and grease the mechanical components. Recheck the current.

Ok tested the steps today and found nothing binding. Tested the controller and found a dead short internally. Hot to ground. Removed the controller and confirmed the reading. A new PN 776367 Kwikee control mod is ordered.
Disconnected the linkage from the motor, lubricated and adjusted the stops.

 

[Just two]

Thanks Chuck,
That is very helpful. Looks like the charging is bidirectional. When the 12 volt lithium is being charged it is also charging the Ford battery. Also the alternator is charging the house battery and probably at the wrong setpoints for lithium.
Looks like I will need to change some wiring.

Thanks again.

The BIRD is a "Bi-directional Isolation Relay Disconnect" and allows independent system performance for the house/coach devices from the vehicle/chassis items like the engine and headlights, etc. while still allowing a common charging scenario from the engine alternator (and the emergency cross connect of the battery banks for engine starting when the chassis batteries are low...) The most common one is from Intellitec. This document gives a good overview.

https://intellitec.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/53-00362-000-PRODUCT-BROCHURE-1.pdf

I have no idea how many issues might stem from mixing a lead acid bank and a lithium bank in a system that has a fully functioning BIRD, as the two battery technologies have very different charging and float maintenance characteristics.

 

[Just two]

Back to the steps. Replace the controller and added a fuse. The steps are work working again. Tested them for proper operation.
We should be good for a while. New controller, lubricated and adjusted. All wire secured in place and clear of moving parts.
On to the next issue, removing the BIRD.