A member with a new replacement battery still going flat confirmed the boost circuit worked, then suspected the alternator was not charging because they had never seen an exciter light and the dash voltmeter stayed below 12 volts. Members suggested checking for parasitic drains with everything off, verifying charging with a real ammeter or clamp meter instead of relying on dash indicators, and considering known draws such as radios, alarm systems, parking-brake-activated slide relays, and...
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A member with a new replacement battery still going flat confirmed the boost circuit worked, then suspected the alternator was not charging because they had never seen an exciter light and the dash voltmeter stayed below 12 volts. Members suggested checking for parasitic drains with everything off, verifying charging with a real ammeter or clamp meter instead of relying on dash indicators, and considering known draws such as radios, alarm systems, parking-brake-activated slide relays, and refrigerator door heaters.
The original poster later found no 12-volt ignition supply at the old alternator and, instead of tracing that circuit before a race trip, installed a one-wire alternator. They reported that the replacement appeared to work, while the possible parasitic-draw suggestions remained useful checks if the battery continued to discharge.